EXERCISE
You might wonder what exercise has to do with everyday dog care—but it has everything to do with it. Exercise isn’t just about “burning energy”; it’s one of the most important things you can do for your dog’s wellbeing.
A big part of it is mental stimulation. Dogs don’t just move around—they sniff. When they smell and process scents from their environment, it mentally wears them out. Sniffing is also a brilliant way to help a bored or restless dog de-stress.
If you want ideas, we have games you can play at home that are designed to help your dog relax and stay engaged. You can find them on our Academy pages:
• £7.95 per sheet
• Or choose a year’s membership for access to the group (the group isn’t quite set up yet)
Exercise rules (and why you shouldn’t blindly follow them)
You’ve probably heard the “5-minute rule” (often said as 1 minute per month of age per day). But where did it come from? According to veterinary specialists, there’s no solid evidence behind it, and it isn’t something we recommend following.
The dogs we tend to work with are active and need plenty of stimulation and time to run off-lead. Even from a puppy, they need to explore their environment—just not in ways that risk injury.
People originally pushed those rules because they thought it would prevent elbow and hip dysplasia. But the reality is: if a dog is going to develop ED or HD, it may happen regardless. Over-exercise can be a problem for younger joints—but it’s much more about being sensible and appropriate for the puppy’s development.
The “sensible” approach for young puppies
Think: normal, safe activity for a younger puppy, not intense strain.
So avoid things like:
• dragging your puppy alongside a mountain bike
• taking them up steep hills/mountains
• letting them run up stairs and then tumble back down
• letting them jump off the sofa
• letting them jump off steps in the garden
What you should do:
• At around 8 weeks, let your puppy play in the garden and settle into home life.
• Then begin socialising everywhere you can--avoid heavy dog areas to reduce virus risk (like parvovirus).
• Don’t allow rough play where they get knocked around--supervise every introduction, even with friendly dogs you know.
A simple progression (once safe to do so)
Once vaccines are complete, around 12 weeks, you can begin puppy classes. Book the first 6 weeks—it gives you structure, teaches cues, and helps tire them out mentally.
From there:
• 15-minute walks (plus play at home)
• increase to two 15-minute sessions
• by about 20 weeks, you can often do 20 minutes twice a day, with home play
• by around 6 months, many puppies can handle a good 40-minute walk on flat ground, with training worked into it
If you’ve heard of people doing intense hikes (like 10 miles with a 20-week puppy)—that’s not recommended. It’s not the standard you should follow. Use common sense.
What to train (and what to avoid)
• No agility until 18 months
• But from around 6 months, you can work on things like:
• obedience
• weave poles (appropriate for age)
• low-ground work
Flat-surface activity is generally okay—but you still need to build up gradually.
Also remember: not every breed is built the same.
• Bull breeds often need slower progression because joint structure is different.
• Gundogs are naturally developed for running.
• Bulldogs typically do well with short bursts rather than long steady exercise.
If your dog is bored, don’t just “exercise”—engage
If your dog is demanding attention because they’re bored, think about games and enrichment at home:
• our 1-2-1 hand feeding guide
• our Sniff and Find Me games
All available in our Academy.
Adult dogs
Once your dog is an adult—generally from 18 months—many can run for long periods with no issue. The key is: still be sensible and respect your individual dog and breed needs.
Be sensible, build gradually, and make sure your dog is getting both mental stimulation and safe physical activity.
Rachel x
A big part of it is mental stimulation. Dogs don’t just move around—they sniff. When they smell and process scents from their environment, it mentally wears them out. Sniffing is also a brilliant way to help a bored or restless dog de-stress.
If you want ideas, we have games you can play at home that are designed to help your dog relax and stay engaged. You can find them on our Academy pages:
• £7.95 per sheet
• Or choose a year’s membership for access to the group (the group isn’t quite set up yet)
Exercise rules (and why you shouldn’t blindly follow them)
You’ve probably heard the “5-minute rule” (often said as 1 minute per month of age per day). But where did it come from? According to veterinary specialists, there’s no solid evidence behind it, and it isn’t something we recommend following.
The dogs we tend to work with are active and need plenty of stimulation and time to run off-lead. Even from a puppy, they need to explore their environment—just not in ways that risk injury.
People originally pushed those rules because they thought it would prevent elbow and hip dysplasia. But the reality is: if a dog is going to develop ED or HD, it may happen regardless. Over-exercise can be a problem for younger joints—but it’s much more about being sensible and appropriate for the puppy’s development.
The “sensible” approach for young puppies
Think: normal, safe activity for a younger puppy, not intense strain.
So avoid things like:
• dragging your puppy alongside a mountain bike
• taking them up steep hills/mountains
• letting them run up stairs and then tumble back down
• letting them jump off the sofa
• letting them jump off steps in the garden
What you should do:
• At around 8 weeks, let your puppy play in the garden and settle into home life.
• Then begin socialising everywhere you can--avoid heavy dog areas to reduce virus risk (like parvovirus).
• Don’t allow rough play where they get knocked around--supervise every introduction, even with friendly dogs you know.
A simple progression (once safe to do so)
Once vaccines are complete, around 12 weeks, you can begin puppy classes. Book the first 6 weeks—it gives you structure, teaches cues, and helps tire them out mentally.
From there:
• 15-minute walks (plus play at home)
• increase to two 15-minute sessions
• by about 20 weeks, you can often do 20 minutes twice a day, with home play
• by around 6 months, many puppies can handle a good 40-minute walk on flat ground, with training worked into it
If you’ve heard of people doing intense hikes (like 10 miles with a 20-week puppy)—that’s not recommended. It’s not the standard you should follow. Use common sense.
What to train (and what to avoid)
• No agility until 18 months
• But from around 6 months, you can work on things like:
• obedience
• weave poles (appropriate for age)
• low-ground work
Flat-surface activity is generally okay—but you still need to build up gradually.
Also remember: not every breed is built the same.
• Bull breeds often need slower progression because joint structure is different.
• Gundogs are naturally developed for running.
• Bulldogs typically do well with short bursts rather than long steady exercise.
If your dog is bored, don’t just “exercise”—engage
If your dog is demanding attention because they’re bored, think about games and enrichment at home:
• our 1-2-1 hand feeding guide
• our Sniff and Find Me games
All available in our Academy.
Adult dogs
Once your dog is an adult—generally from 18 months—many can run for long periods with no issue. The key is: still be sensible and respect your individual dog and breed needs.
Be sensible, build gradually, and make sure your dog is getting both mental stimulation and safe physical activity.
Rachel x